The Village Bar in Des Peres holds a special place in Matt Sorrell’s heart. A native of nearby Kirkwood, he frequented the feed store-turned-watering hole and dining establishment during his college years after shifts paving parking lots.
“One of my supervisors moonlighted as a bartender [there], so we would go over and get his employee discount after work and just hang out,” he said. The burgers and hand-cut onion rings didn’t hurt, either.
For Sorrell, now a longtime St. Louis food writer, the Village Bar was his introduction to the kind of convivial, unpretentious atmosphere he’s drawn to. It’s also one of 80 restaurants, bars and shops featured in his new book, “Matt’s St. Louis Food Story.”
He stressed that it isn’t a best-of list: “Whenever I see a best-of list or a Top 10 list, I’m always like, ‘Says who?’” What the book does include are spots where he’s had a genuinely good time.
“I very rarely remember all the dishes I eat somewhere or whatnot. … I always remember the places that I liked going and hanging out at. So for me, that has to be unpretentious,” he said. “It could be high-end food and more like a fine-dining type of situation, or it could be a food truck. It's that whole attitude of, ‘We're not trying that hard to impress you, we're just doing what we do.’”
Among the south St. Louis spots in the book are Planter’s House, Iowa Buffet, the Hideaway and the Royale. Each entry includes why Sorrell picked it, plus bits of history or notes on what visitors can expect. At the Hideaway, for example, he writes that newcomers often feel like regulars — and once a month, customers play meat bingo for the chance to take home some prime cuts.
Sorrell deliberately mixes old standbys and newer arrivals. Crown Candy Kitchen and Gioia's Deli are a couple of the former; restaurants like Kain Tayo and Balkan Treat Box highlight St. Louis’ evolving dining scene.
Shops and other purveyors earn spots in the book as well, including Intoxicology in the Grove and El Morelia Supermercado in Bridgeton. Old Vienna’s Red Hot Riplets gets a spicy, crispy shoutout, too.
To hear more of Matt Sorrell’s St. Louis favorites, listen to St. Louis on the Air on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or YouTube or click the play button below.
“St. Louis on the Air” brings you the stories of St. Louis and the people who live, work and create in our region. The show is produced by Miya Norfleet, Emily Woodbury, Danny Wicentowski, Elaine Cha and Alex Heuer. Darrious Varner is our production assistant. The audio engineer is Aaron Doerr.
